Glimpses of Nepali Architecture

Glimpses of Nepali Architecture

By Roshni Udyavar Yehuda
http://www.insiteindia.in/2014/june/contents.htm

A traditional window adorns the walls of a modern bungalow 

My first peek at Nepali Architecture was literally through a window – ornate, wooden, enhanced by intricate architraves made of carved bricks - placed on the exterior wall of a modern bungalow, the home of a friend who had invited me to a traditional Thakali dinner during a recent visit to Kathmandu

These windows, part of medieval Newari Architecture, can be seen everywhere, especially in Bhaktapur Square, Patan Durbar Square and Kathmandu Square - three kingdoms of the Malla Dynasty which ruled in the Kathmandu Valley until the mid-eighteenth century. My brief stay allowed me to visit only the first two. My guide told me that windows served the purpose of privacy, light and ventilation and were predominately ornate in the chambers where ladies of the Royal Family resided.

Ornate windows were provided in the ladies’ chambers in Palaces

Traditional architecture in the Kathmandu valley is rich in craftsmanship and architectural detail. In many ways, there is resemblance to Indian traditional architecture, and in fact, appears to be a continuum of the North Indian Architecture, particularly of the Jammu and Kashmir Valley. Religion and mythology have historically interspersed between the lands in the absence of political boundaries. Hindu and Buddhist philosophy are merged and adopted by the populace as if it were one evolving idea and way of life.

Religion, it seems, is everywhere in this architecture, but with a subtlety such that each form gels with the other in creating a unique urban design. From the temples to the palaces to the pathways, exposed brick and timber flawlessly outline the forms of buildings and streets. Hindu and Buddhist deities are enshrined within a flow of Pagoda and Shikara-style temples built alongside Palaces.

Bhaktapur Square.

The role of the King and the royal family in the late medieval art and architecture is undeniable as is their role as protectors of Dharma and custodians and builders of religious shrines.

The 55-window Palace (so called for its balcony designed with 55 windows) in Bhaktapur Square, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Built by King Jitamitra Malla to house the royal family, it is at the center of the Square. The Palace, originally finished in 1427, was the official residence of the Royal Family till 1769. Now housing the National Gallery, it displays some priceless pieces of art

One of the striking features of both temple and Palace architecture are roof-supporting brackets made in wood, which are carved in the form of deities or sometimes depict whole stories. At the Patan Darbar square, one of the temples had brackets depicting stories of the nether world – stories of what would happen if you commit sins and are sent to hell.

The 55-window Palace at Bhaktapur Square

Public architecture in the Square comprises of water tanks where fresh water from the Bagmati River flowed from gargoyles that are guarded by deities. Like most modern cities though, the rivers supplying water to these tanks have been neglected and water barely trickles through, even as people queue up to collect their daily ration. 

Public tanks at Patan Darbar Square

The market in both Patan Darbar and Bhaktapur Square start beyond the temples and palaces –and are arranged organically, much as in a  

Colorful Bazaar paths in the outskirt of the Squares

village. Small obscure shops selling everything from ornate silver and antique jewellery to traditional costumes, masks, paintings, sculpture and pottery,  lend color to the outskirts of the Squares. The bazaar is a tribute to the skills of the locals. The pottery square at Bhaktapur is particularly interesting with live display of pottery-making and ceramic artifacts – mostly connected with Lord Buddha.

The traditional vernacular architecture of Nepal is synchronized with its unique landscape and has three distinct styles – architecture of the Himalayan Region (Thakali architecture), the hilly region (Gurung architecture) and the Tarai region or the plains (Mithila architecture). Like vernacular architecture everywhere, the organization of space within and outside these dwellings is based on deeply evolved ideas and social values related to gender, age, maritial customs and other forms of hierarchy within the community as well as more abstract values such as beliefs about privacy. Much in the same way, I learnt, are the languages here - Newari was a literary language and used mainly in urban areas and trading circles in the Kathmandu Valley; Maithili the language of the Tirhut area to the south, still was spoken by many people in the Tarai and Khas bhasha, or the language of the Khasa, is spoken in West Nepal.

Simplicity, diversity and detailing are the hallmarks of the interior design, which is predominantly based on wood and metal. This ornate work is a dying craft, fetching the interior artifacts a good sum and is exported around the world in the form of doors, windows, frames and other carvings.  

Traditional Nepali homes are known to be aesthetically rich while also being functional. 

There are still a large number of homes in Newari architecture style with ‘darbar style’ classical interiors comprising telia-tiled (oil based bricks) flooring, low ceilings and ornate doorways and windows.  Traditional homes are also known for the Nepali display of ‘kitsch’, sentimental items that could be found at almost any variety store in the city. However, newer homes prefer a mix of traditional elements 

and contemporary settings, seeking a ‘neo-classical’ exterior and elaborate, cosy, but functional interiors. While this trend is evident in the Rana or palatial houses, most-middle class houses seem to take on the inverse – traditional exteriors and modern interiors. Modern interiors more often refer to high ceilings (in contrast to traditional homes – more suitable to Nepali climate), use of glass, flooring from Italy and Thailand and furniture from India. 

Tanka Painting - the Mandala (Universe)

Nepali art and architecture are intriguing as are its people and their culture. There is an underlying sense of wisdom of a people who have lived in close proximity and in harmony with Nature for generations. Two cherished purchases from the visit are a Healing Bowl that speaks through sound (the sound of Om) and a Tanka Painting by a Master Painter (Monk), which gives you a chart of the Universe – the Mandala

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(The Author is Head, Rachana Sansad’s Institute of Environmental Architecture)