Jerusalem - A city 'upside down'

http://freepressjournal.in/jerusalem-a-city-upside-down/

Jerusalem: A city ‘upside down’

By Roshni Udyavar Yehuda

A massive hourglass figure of stainless steel installed by the internationally renowned Indian/Jewish artist, Aneesh Kapoor, and commissioned by the Jerusalem Development Authority, greets one at the threshold of the renovated Israel Museum in Jerusalem. The untitled work has since been dubbed as ‘Upside down’ as the piece of art reflected the world upside down, just as it is to discover Jerusalem, from the present in to the past!

As part of a team of architects and journalists participating from around the world in the ‘Open House Jerusalem’, festival from 18 to 20 September 2014, I precisely got this opportunity – to explore the vitality of this ancient city.

Two thousand five hundred feet above mean sea level, the air in Jerusalem is cool, with a distinct flavor of the spiritual. No wonder, ‘Jerusalem’ is synonymous to the ‘holy land’. Situated precipitously in the Judean mountains between the Mediterranean and the Dead Sea, Jerusalem is the birthplace of three of the world’s major religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam. The roots of the city are more than 3000 years old, and one can feel the layers of history as we walk through its narrow cobblestone streets. If this is your first visit, the city can simply sweep you off the ground!

At the heart of Jerusalem is the old city surrounded by a massive wall, rebuilt in the 16^th century by the renowned Ottoman Sultan, Suleman the Great. Within its perimeter, the city is divided into four quarters – Jewish, Muslim, Christians and Armenian. A pilgrimage site for millions of tourists from around the world, the story of Jerusalem is one of conquests and wars. Capturing and taking control of this historic city was crucial for generations of rulers – the Babylonians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Caliphates, Mamluks, Crusaders, Ottomans and finally, the British – until the formation of the State of Israel in 1947.

A walk along the Cardo (meaning ‘a main street’ in Roman) in the Jewish Quarter, built by the Roman, Adreanus, gives you a glimpse of the houses embedded, as if along both sides of the stone pathways, as also a colorful market leading up to the Holy Sites - the Western Wall, which is holy to the Jews, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, and the Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount. A visit to these sites brings in a deep sense of history, of going back to the times of Christ and beyond.

Of course, the city has much color and charm beyond the holy sites. The Machane Yehuda (Camp of Yehuda) market is one such exciting place. Construed as a place for selling their crops and wares, the market was set up by a small group of Arab farmers. Presently, the market has grown to be one of the biggest in the country with everything from cosmetics to cafes, ceramics to souvenirs, spices to fresh vegetables, toiletries to grocery – all in one location. The market is bustling, colorful, and a treat to the senses. Being in the market, one gets a feel of ethnicity of the region, and of being at home with the local people.

The Israel Museum is an art, architectural and historical delight. An endless maze of history and art of that region, it was opened in 1965. The Architect Alfred Mansfeld was awarded the Israel Prize for Architecture for the design that is a modular replication of a Mediterranean Village that could grow organically, as indeed, the Museum has since then. A jar-shaped white structure housing the Shrine of the book in the complex is most intriguing as one descends into it like in a cave to discover the original Dead Sea Scrolls found in the Qumran Caves of the Judean Desert from around 100 BCE!

If you are touring Jerusalem all by yourself, there is no better place to be entertained than the revived old train station complex. Designed in 1870s, and inaugurated in 1892, the Jaffa-Jerusalem narrow gauge railroad track, helped transport emergency supplies to Jerusalem during the First World War.  

Abandoned, and in a dilapidated state, the Jerusalem Municipality and Jerusalem Development Authority revived it in 2003 by announcing a tender to convert the station complex into a cultural center. The ‘Train Track Park’ as it is now known, is a bustling leisure complex for the entire family with cafes, restaurants, bars, cycling and walking tracks, a colorful market, a gallery, a visitors’ center, a play area for children, and a large central open space for musicals and plays. The sight of the old wagons, and the partly exposed rail track, are reminders of its original function. 

Local travel within Jerusalem is possible through buses and taxis that traverse the difficult terrain of the city, and of course, the newly introduced Light Rail. The Jerusalem Light Rail slides through the cobbled streets of the city as stealthily as it merges with its historic fabric.

Meandering along the streets of Jerusalem, in the vicinity of Independence Park one afternoon, during the Jewish Festival period, we were looking for an eating joint that would give us a taste of the local. And surely in one of the by-lanes, found an array of small eateries serving piping-hot 'shakshukas' (eggs tossed into tomato puree and cooked in it with traditional spices); 'jhach'noon', a typical Shabbath morning snack - a baked roll served with a boiled egg, tomato paste and spiced coriander paste; and the delicacy I grew crazy over: 'melavvach' - layers of batter rolled with stuffings of mushrooms, roasted egg, tomato sauces, a visual and culinary treat.

Jerusalem is blessed by the heritage of cultures - people coming in from North & Southern Africa, Eastern & Western Europe, with communities bringing in the very best of their cuisines. The city wakes late into the night in places like the German Colony, the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall, the Nakhalat Shiv’a, Shlomtsiyon Hamalka Street and the Russian Compound.

It is a city where tradition blends with modernity, where the old and the new meet in subtle and charming ways.

(Roshni Udyavar Yehuda is Head, Rachana Sansad’s Institute of Environmental Architecture; roshniudyavar@gmail.com)

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Practical Tips:

Getting there: Reaching Jerusalem is easy. You can take a high-speed train from the Ben Gurion Airport, Tel Aviv to Jerusalem or hire a taxi.

Where to stay: There are a wide range of good hotels such as Leonardo Plaza, Dan Panorama, Arthur Boutique hotel, King David Hotel, Waldorf Estoria, and YMCA Three Arches Hotel

Saving money: Buy a smart card and traverse the city on Light Rail and Buses, within city limits; Try the local dishes such as Felafel, Khummus, Jacnun, Melavach, in local street-side Cafes, Kiosks and side-streets

What to wear & take: From November to March is the cold season when it rains or snows occasionally – bring sweaters, scarves and winter jackets; Summers are hot in the day but cool and windy at nights; Best month to visit is Spring – between April and June

An Ode to a Visionary - Prof. S.H. Wandrekar

An Ode to a Visionary – Prof. S.H. Wandrekar

With Prof. and Mrs. Wandrekar at Pali, August 2006

I was travelling to Jejuri for a lake conservation project when a message flashed  on my cellphone in the early hours of Friday, 12 September 2014:” Prof. S.H. Wandrekar is no more”. It took some time for the message to sink in, and the thought of returning back to Mumbai on a five-hour journey came to mind. But then, as Dr. Joshi who was travelling with me, put it, “Prof. Wandrekar would have been happy knowing you are doing this work”. It gave me some consolation.

Prof. Wandrekar was, for me, a father figure, a unique soul, one whom I looked up to, and who taught me a great deal about life, and about work.

With Prof. Wandrekar during the visit to Shanghai World Expo
in October 2010

It was in 1998 that I first began to know him as I was working on an international conference on Sustainable Architecture that was held at Rachana Sansad, jointly organized by the International Institute for Sustainable Future (IISF) where I then worked. It was the idea of Dr. Rashmi Mayur and Prof. Wandrekar then to start a postgraduate course on Environmental Architecture. I can never forget the moment when nearly 12 years ago, after the sad demise of Prof. Nishi Phondge, Prof. Wandrekar asked me if I would take over the reins of the Institute. The confidence he put in me drew me to excel. I was determined to make the Institute one of the best.

Prof. Wandrekar with the faculty and students of
first batch of the Masters Program, 2008

Although he was the Chairman of my Institute, he was more than approachable. I was lucky. Not many people get this opportunity to create, nurture and bring up an Institute under such a father figure. Prof. Wandrekar believed in people. And he put enormous faith in them.  And in turn, people had enormous faith in him.

He was simple yet elegant and classy. He believed in quality and would never accept anything substandard. For him, presentation was as important. He had a global vision. And most importantly, he was humanistic. He cared for people and he deeply cared for the environment. And he believed in action.

With Prof. Wandrekar during the visit to Shanghai World Expo
in October 2010

There were numerous projects I can recall that we took up – the Pali eco-village project, the Goa mine restoration project, Sawantwadi, conservation of Havelis, tree plantation, and so on. For me, what is important is not how these projects fared but that we made an effort. There are people in my institute, particularly Rajeev Taishete, Mukund Porecha, Dr. Lattoo and Dr. Joshi, who have all become part of this ethos. We took part in these projects because of the enthusiasm, the thought that we were doing something that was right, the thought that we had to lead by example, and there are numerous people amongst our faculty and students who have now imbibed this character.  Despite his schedule, he always accepted our invitation and knew each one of our faculty member. He always took the time to talk and motivate our students.

Honored to receive an award from Prof. Wandrekar
on his retirement day on 25  April 2012

These were more than projects – they symbolized hope – for a better environment, better future and better planet – through education and through the application of knowledge. That is one message that Prof. Wandrekar gave – knowledge is important, but application of knowledge for the larger cause – is even more important.

Prof. Wandrekar believed in aesthetics. He would not hesitate in picking up a piece of garbage or telling off a student that he or she was badly dressed while using the elevator.

With Adv. Chitnis during the Workshop on
'Teaching and Research'
in April 2013

He was humble. He would attend and organize seminars and conferences – Knowledge was an endless realm for him – on which to paint his canvas. One thing that always astounded me about Prof. Wandrekar was his child-like curiosity, and his ability to make others also think likewise. He had enormous faith in knowledge and its power of transformation. This I have come to believe very strongly. That people can change when empowered with the knowledge.

Prof. Wandrekar believed in networking. He met with all kinds of people – activists, minsters, artists, scientists. He conversed naturally and humanely. I believe he could see the connection through all of them. He saw the world as a unified progression.

Prof. Wandrekar addressing fresh students of M.Arch.
(Environmental Architecture) in August 2013

Whenever any new or exciting project came up, I would never hesitate to walk up to his cabin and convey it to him. He, in turn, would encourage me and guide me. He always saw the positivity in things and would like to move in that direction.

‘Prof. Wandrekar is no more’ - I find it difficult to accept this. I believe he is with us – his guiding hand will be behind every endeavor we take up - to educate and to strengthen our bonds with nature.     

-       Prof. Roshni Udyavar Yehuda, Head, Rachana Sansad’s Institute of Environmental Architecture, 19 September 2014

  

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Rains, Birds, and some new ones...


The rains are here...what a relief! And they have blessed us incessantly this July and August...thank God! Of course, Mumbaikars keep cursing the rains, because its mucky and dirty on the streets what with Leptospirosis and what not....but the rains are oh so beautiful in Bombay compared to any other place...we are blessed!

Mornings are lazy...These days I invariably wake up in the mornings - not to the alarm clock - but the super punctual sparrows. There are 4 of them I think that come to my balcony to eat Bajra - thanks to the sparrow feeder (thanks Prajkta and Shobha Agarwal who generously gifted to our ECBC team) I placed in March of this year.

Pip pip peep - Pip pip peep - first one chirps, then another responds - this goes on for an hour or more in the morning - the same pattern! Their chirp patterns seem different in the afternoons. They are there all the time jumping between the feeder and the water pot, which are placed one above the other. ...so so busy...sound familiar?

Their chirps are pleasant ...like some classical raga...a beautiful start. I often relax sitting next to the balcony reading newspapers and books in the morning. As the morning progresses, their sounds are drowned by the horns of cars - literally saying 'get out of my way, you piece of nothing!!!' - sounds like arrogance - or as we say 'Emgee Greens goes to work!' The road in front of our building has become a parking lot!

There is also a wonderful pair of sunbirds which suck nectar from the plants in my balcony. The flowers are in full bloom. And not only do we get a wonderful fragrance in our house all day, but as they sway to the wind, they are delightful to watch...almost as if singing in the wind!

The rains have brought in wonderful shades of green. And to it, I have added a dash of pink (thanks Charvie and Prajkta!).

Ah, I have not been able to take pictures of the sunbird with all their gynamistic postures (sometimes hanging upside down!!) ... and that's because they keep fritting around ....now here, now there....their beaks are perfectly made to drink nectar from the flowers in seconds! Sugandhi, Lantanas and the butterfly plant (that's what I call it for want of its real name....will consult Dr. Lattoo's encyclopaedia for the next time).

And there they go...breakfast over...bye bye for the day. I have here one picture against the light. Hmm....better luck next time!!

And now, finally, I have got rid of the pigeons in my bedroom. Thanks to Mukund, and quick service by Quality Nets...it has saved me so much heartburn in the mornings! And now, I have planted lady's finger, tomatoes and french beans. Here is a picture of my bhindi plant - just two days old....notice the tiny little thing with hairs all over (not bad from my Nikon coolpix L120)!

And here's a picture of the French beans plant.


Hopefully, I will have pictures of tomatoes, Lady's fingers and french beans very soon!! now that I don't have the pigeons to spoil them.

Glimpses of Nepali Architecture

Glimpses of Nepali Architecture

By Roshni Udyavar Yehuda
http://www.insiteindia.in/2014/june/contents.htm

A traditional window adorns the walls of a modern bungalow 

My first peek at Nepali Architecture was literally through a window – ornate, wooden, enhanced by intricate architraves made of carved bricks - placed on the exterior wall of a modern bungalow, the home of a friend who had invited me to a traditional Thakali dinner during a recent visit to Kathmandu

These windows, part of medieval Newari Architecture, can be seen everywhere, especially in Bhaktapur Square, Patan Durbar Square and Kathmandu Square - three kingdoms of the Malla Dynasty which ruled in the Kathmandu Valley until the mid-eighteenth century. My brief stay allowed me to visit only the first two. My guide told me that windows served the purpose of privacy, light and ventilation and were predominately ornate in the chambers where ladies of the Royal Family resided.

Ornate windows were provided in the ladies’ chambers in Palaces

Traditional architecture in the Kathmandu valley is rich in craftsmanship and architectural detail. In many ways, there is resemblance to Indian traditional architecture, and in fact, appears to be a continuum of the North Indian Architecture, particularly of the Jammu and Kashmir Valley. Religion and mythology have historically interspersed between the lands in the absence of political boundaries. Hindu and Buddhist philosophy are merged and adopted by the populace as if it were one evolving idea and way of life.

Religion, it seems, is everywhere in this architecture, but with a subtlety such that each form gels with the other in creating a unique urban design. From the temples to the palaces to the pathways, exposed brick and timber flawlessly outline the forms of buildings and streets. Hindu and Buddhist deities are enshrined within a flow of Pagoda and Shikara-style temples built alongside Palaces.

Bhaktapur Square.

The role of the King and the royal family in the late medieval art and architecture is undeniable as is their role as protectors of Dharma and custodians and builders of religious shrines.

The 55-window Palace (so called for its balcony designed with 55 windows) in Bhaktapur Square, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Built by King Jitamitra Malla to house the royal family, it is at the center of the Square. The Palace, originally finished in 1427, was the official residence of the Royal Family till 1769. Now housing the National Gallery, it displays some priceless pieces of art

One of the striking features of both temple and Palace architecture are roof-supporting brackets made in wood, which are carved in the form of deities or sometimes depict whole stories. At the Patan Darbar square, one of the temples had brackets depicting stories of the nether world – stories of what would happen if you commit sins and are sent to hell.

The 55-window Palace at Bhaktapur Square

Public architecture in the Square comprises of water tanks where fresh water from the Bagmati River flowed from gargoyles that are guarded by deities. Like most modern cities though, the rivers supplying water to these tanks have been neglected and water barely trickles through, even as people queue up to collect their daily ration. 

Public tanks at Patan Darbar Square

The market in both Patan Darbar and Bhaktapur Square start beyond the temples and palaces –and are arranged organically, much as in a  

Colorful Bazaar paths in the outskirt of the Squares

village. Small obscure shops selling everything from ornate silver and antique jewellery to traditional costumes, masks, paintings, sculpture and pottery,  lend color to the outskirts of the Squares. The bazaar is a tribute to the skills of the locals. The pottery square at Bhaktapur is particularly interesting with live display of pottery-making and ceramic artifacts – mostly connected with Lord Buddha.

The traditional vernacular architecture of Nepal is synchronized with its unique landscape and has three distinct styles – architecture of the Himalayan Region (Thakali architecture), the hilly region (Gurung architecture) and the Tarai region or the plains (Mithila architecture). Like vernacular architecture everywhere, the organization of space within and outside these dwellings is based on deeply evolved ideas and social values related to gender, age, maritial customs and other forms of hierarchy within the community as well as more abstract values such as beliefs about privacy. Much in the same way, I learnt, are the languages here - Newari was a literary language and used mainly in urban areas and trading circles in the Kathmandu Valley; Maithili the language of the Tirhut area to the south, still was spoken by many people in the Tarai and Khas bhasha, or the language of the Khasa, is spoken in West Nepal.

Simplicity, diversity and detailing are the hallmarks of the interior design, which is predominantly based on wood and metal. This ornate work is a dying craft, fetching the interior artifacts a good sum and is exported around the world in the form of doors, windows, frames and other carvings.  

Traditional Nepali homes are known to be aesthetically rich while also being functional. 

There are still a large number of homes in Newari architecture style with ‘darbar style’ classical interiors comprising telia-tiled (oil based bricks) flooring, low ceilings and ornate doorways and windows.  Traditional homes are also known for the Nepali display of ‘kitsch’, sentimental items that could be found at almost any variety store in the city. However, newer homes prefer a mix of traditional elements 

and contemporary settings, seeking a ‘neo-classical’ exterior and elaborate, cosy, but functional interiors. While this trend is evident in the Rana or palatial houses, most-middle class houses seem to take on the inverse – traditional exteriors and modern interiors. Modern interiors more often refer to high ceilings (in contrast to traditional homes – more suitable to Nepali climate), use of glass, flooring from Italy and Thailand and furniture from India. 

Tanka Painting - the Mandala (Universe)

Nepali art and architecture are intriguing as are its people and their culture. There is an underlying sense of wisdom of a people who have lived in close proximity and in harmony with Nature for generations. Two cherished purchases from the visit are a Healing Bowl that speaks through sound (the sound of Om) and a Tanka Painting by a Master Painter (Monk), which gives you a chart of the Universe – the Mandala

.

(The Author is Head, Rachana Sansad’s Institute of Environmental Architecture)